Plunging waves break with tremendous force and can easily throw a swimmer to the bottom. They usually occur at low tide, when the sand banks are shallow and there is less water for the waves to break onto. This wave type is dangerous and is a common cause of spinal injuries.

Spilling waves

Spilling waves occurr when the crest (or top) of the wave tumbles down the face (or front) of the wave. As the tide gets lower and the sand bank on which the waves are breaking becomes more shallow, this type of wave will form tunnels or ‘tubes’. Generally, spilling waves are the safest waves.

Surging waves

surging Surging waves may never actually break as they approach the water’s edge, as a result of the water being very deep beneath them. They do not lose speed or gain height. Surging waves can knock swimmers of their feet and carry them back into deep water. For this reason they can be very dangerous, especially around rocks, breakwaters and groynes.

Identifying rip currents

Rip currents are the major cause of swimmer difficulties leading to surf rescues.

A rip current is a body of water moving out to sea. Other common names for such currents are rip tide, undertow wash and run out.

A rip current is formed by water seeking it’s own level, usually as a result of large sets of waves approaching the beach and building up water which later returns to sea to even out water levels, thus causing a drag outwards.

rip formation The larger the surf, the more intense the rip current.

Common signs of a rip current are:

discoloured brown water, due to sand which has been stirred off the bottom;
foam on the surface extending beyond the break;
waves breaking further out on both sides of the rip;
debris floating seaward; and
a rippled appearance, where the surrounding water is generally calm.

Rip currents are difficult to identify on windy days and when the surf is choppy. Sand bars often form next to rip currents.

Escape from a rip current

rip escape If caught in a rip, do not panic. A swimmer with limited ability should ride the rip out from the beach and swim parallel to the shore for 30 to 40 metres. Return to the shore where the waves are breaking, parallel to the rip.

Strong swimmers should swim at a 45 degree angle across the rip and in the sam direction as the side current

After a short swim, it pays to probe with your legs to see if a sand bar has formed near the edge of the rip.

Between The Flags Newsletter
Sign Up to receive our newsletter